A few weeks ago, we spent quite a bit of time in Chicago. A portion of that time was dedicated to my work - the whole impetus for the trip was for me to attend the
American Library Association's annual conference. The conference was fabulous, if overwhelming. Tens of thousands of representatives from public libraries, college libraries, school libraries, business libraries, etc., descended on the city like a swarm of conservatively dressed bees who only want to sting you with knowledge. But I certainly got a ton out of it work-wise, as well as interest-wise (highlights include seeing
Temple Grandin and
Octavia Spencer speak).
I also spent a portion of this trip sick. Like, really sick. On the second day of the conference, I could have sworn I had strep throat and I'm not entirely convinced I didn't. I couldn't swallow for a few days. Then I couldn't breathe through my nose. Then I couldn't go 30 seconds without delving into a coughing fit. Add to that the fact that I was also 6 and a half months pregnant (and found out a week after returning that I shouldn't be walking long distances or standing for long periods of time...my bad) and we weren't QUITE able to keep to the itinerary we had originally planned. Luckily, we also stayed for 10 days so we had the luxury of turning in at 6 p.m. without feeling like we were missing anything.
Here are some of the things we did, in the order in which we did them because I have OCD and that's how I roll. Some I'd recommend wholeheartedly (Field Museum, Lincoln Park Zoo); others, I'd say you could skip if constrained by time or money (Adler Planetarium). But all were fun in their own way.
Field Museum
The day after we arrived in Chicago was the victory parade for the Chicago Blackhawks' recent Stanley Cup win. You know, the one they beat the Bruins for. We had no ill will toward the Blackhawks, were happy that the Bruins lost to a likeable team (unlike, say, the Canucks), but still. Did I mention that the parade was RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET FROM OUR HOTEL? Because it was.
We opted to walk a few blocks and hide in the
Field Museum of Natural History. It was a good choice, even if we were greeted by a gigantic taunt:
The Field Museum is famous for a few things. One is that it is the workplace of perhaps the most famous anthropologist of all time - Indiana Jones. Another is that it is home to the most complete and preserved Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton in the world.
Its dinosaur fossil collection in general is immense and impressive, as is its exhibit on Egypt. Frankly, the whole thing is pretty awesome and definitely worth an afternoon.
Adler Planetarium
I spent the next few days post-Field Museum at the conference and therefore, we didn't do much sightseeing. Well, I say we, but Matt did take a walk and photograph some of the city's famous drawbridges. But since I wasn't there, it doesn't count.
After the final day of the session, with tickets already purchased for a baseball game that night, we headed to the nearby
Adler Planetarium. The planetarium was in the same area as the Field Museum and the Shedd Aquarium, known as the Museum Campus. (We skipped the aquarium because of time and because you had to pay extra to see the exhibits that normal people would want to see, like penguins. I mean, really, what else is the point?) Adler is famous for a few things; namely, it's exquisite view of the Chicago skyline.
The actual planetarium was...OK. If the tickets had been cheaper, I would have probably liked it more. Like Shedd Aquarium, you had to pay more to see all the exhibits and we did upgrade so we could see at least one show. I'm glad we did; that was, by far, the best part.
The other interesting thing about the museum stems from the fact that astronaut Jim Lovell lives nearby so there is a ton of artifacts from his various trips. As a fan of that era of space travel (you know, the era where we actually traveled in space), I enjoyed it.
U.S. Cellular Field
When we told people that we were going to Chicago, their first question always was, "Are you going to Wrigley Field?" Everyone seems to forget that there are, in fact, TWO professional baseball teams in Chi-town and we planned on hitting them both.
Obviously, U.S. Cellular Field doesn't have the same cache as the second-oldest ballpark in the country. It's named U.S. Cellular Field, for starters. And it's kind of in a shady part of town. The whole atmosphere had a kind of minor-league feel to it - the food was terrible but cheap, we bought tickets for $10 online and the promotions wouldn't have been out of place at a 9-year-old's birthday party.
That being said, it was still baseball. Professional baseball. And it had its moments. Before the game even started, we hung out in the bar located right behind right field. And by "right behind," I mean you are literally on field-level looking at the outfielder's back. We drank some sodas and watched batting practice just long enough for a practice ball by Baltimore's Chris Davis to land right next to our table. Instant souvenir!
We also got great seats on the cheap, saw some fireworks every time a member of the White Sox hit a home run and watched as the home team defeated Red Sox division foe Baltimore.
Lincoln Park Zoo
It's been a couple of weeks since we got back and I still can't believe the Lincoln Park Zoo exists. It's not just because it's a nice zoo; I've been to nice zoos before (the Pittsburgh Zoo remains my gold standard). No, it's the fact that it's a nice zoo with a huge collection of different types of animals in non-depressing environments and it's COMPLETELY FREE. Not just free on Tuesday mornings or on the third Wednesday of each month or free for kids if you buy the parents' tickets. Just free. For everyone. Always. No kid in the Chicago area will grow up having not seen a lion or a gorilla or a flamingo in the flesh. That's just awesome.
And like I said, it's a nice zoo.
Second City
For those unaware, Second City is the comedy troupe that kickstarted a lot of careers. Stephen Colbert, Tina Fey, John Belushi, Amy Poehler, the list goes on and is highlighted by handprints and signatures of people who have performed there (even just as visitors). It's also known for its improv and while I'm not usually a big stand-up comedy fan for people I don't know, I love me some improv. So that's the show we went to.
We made sure to keep the program and circle the troupe members we saw perform. You know, just in case we turn on Saturday Night Live in a couple of years and someone looks kind of familiar.
Untouchables Tour
Embarrassingly enough, when we started looking into things to do in Chicago, this is what excited me most. Not Wrigley Field or Navy Pier or the famous museums. Not deep-dish pizza or Chinatown. No, I wanted to learn about gangsters and I wanted to do so from a guy dressed like an extra in
Who Framed Roger Rabbit?
Check and check.
The tour was equal parts interesting and corny because obviously. In short, it was everything I thought it would be (although somewhat overpriced). We saw the site of the St. Valentine's Day Massacre, where John Dillinger was shot, the brewery where Al Capone made his near-beer during prohibition (as well as the alcohol to add to said "near-beer"). Perhaps most interesting was the church where Capone put a hit on a rival; his body wound up at the entrance to the church and while they attempted to hide it over the years with installed concrete stairs, there is still one bullet hole that was too high and is still visible.
Navy Pier
Our original goal had been to time walk on Navy Pier with the Fourth of July fireworks because Navy Pier is known for its fireworks and it would be festive. Nothing beats festive. Well, nothing except pregnancy, a terrible cold (treated with nothing stronger than tissues and cough drops) and the fact that we got there seven hours before the fireworks would start. Then nothing beats a hotel room bed.
So we did spend the Fourth of July at Navy Pier; it just happened to be mid-day, sans fireworks. I'm OK with that. For those that don't know,
Navy Pier does have some military origin but now it's more of a combination mini-amusement park, kitschy shopping plaza and waterfront boardwalk. It's a nice place to walk around, do some fine people-watching (within 20 minutes, we saw a Forrest Gump impersonator and a wedding where all of the bridesmaids were wearing leopard-print dresses) and check out the views of the city. It probably would have been even more fun if I had been able to go on any of the rides, or at least the famous ferris wheel, but oh well. I still had a fine time taking an obscene amount of pictures of it.
Architecture Boat Tour
Other than Wrigley Field, this was the thing everyone said to do. Home of Frank Lloyd Wright and a slew of other architects that people with more architecture knowledge than me (i.e. everyone), it seems like every building has some sort of unique design history. And even if you don't know much about architecture, it's a nice way to go on a relaxing boat ride through the city and see some impressive sites.
John Hancock Observatory
At first, I figured we would go to the top of Willis (Sears) Tower. I mean, it is the most famous building in Chicago's skyline. But then I thought about it - if you're on top of Willis (Sears) Tower, then you can't take a picture
of Willis (Sears) Tower. Also, the Hancock Observatory is cheaper and, from everything I've read, nicer.
The views were, as expected, great, particularly of the beach and coastline. Strangely, they seem to really like marketing their Skywalk, which is just this little walkway between the two sides of the building that has terrible views blocked by grates so you can't even take photos. Why use the worst part of your product to sell it? But anyway, yes. Pretty sweet.
Wrigley Field
Of course we went to Wrigley Field! Duh! It was exactly what I thought/hoped it would be (other than the utterly confusing way they label sections and rows) - a nice combination of history and pure baseball love. As a Fenway Park regular, I felt as much at home as I have at any other ballpark. No free batting practice ball this time, but it did happen to be free t-shirt day, so there's that.
Around Chicago
Other than the big sites, we hit a few places walking and driving around.
Millennium Park was a sight, particularly the famous Bean statue (above) and the weird Cloud Gate water fountains (below).
Grant Park was across the street from our hotel (and the location of the Blackhawks victory parade) and had some interesting installations.
This being a library-themed trip, we stopped by the
Chicago Public Library's main branch (above), a huge place made slightly less impressive when I learned it was only built a couple decades ago and made to look old. Making up for it was the children's library dollhouse containing references (obvious and not) to dozens of different classic children's books. We also passed by the
Chicago Cultural Center (below), which was the original public library ages ago, and hung out with a group of librarian friends at
Branch 27, a former branch building of the public library system that has since been made into a restaurant and bar.
We also stopped for photo ops at
Steppenwolf Theatre (where Gary Sinise and John Malkovich got their starts) and Oprah Winfrey's
Harpo Studios.
Eatin' (and Drinkin')
Unfortunately, I didn't much drinkin' done because, you know, fetus. But we ate a lot. Like, a lot. Some of my favorites included:
- Lou Malnati's - The best pizza we had in Deep Dish Country, we went more than once.
- Pizzeria Due - The Pizzeria Uno chain was started in Chicago, and the second franchise was known as Pizzeria Due (for some reason, the two franchises are located about 20 feet from each other despite using pretty much the same menu). The menus for both are limited to their specialty - deep dish pizza that takes 45 minutes to prepare - and we went to Due rather than Uno because it had a cool balcony to sit on. I love the Uno's chain and it was fun for historical purposes, although I do think Lou Malnati's pizza was better.
- Hackney's - This chain bar was located right down the road from our hotel, in a district known as Printer's Row because of its history of publishing companies. The food wasn't superb but it had a good drink menu, the people were nice, and it was just our kind of hangout.
- Yolk - Also a Chicago chain, this breakfast and lunch eatery was awesome. Really awesome. So awesome that we ate three out of four straight meals there at one point. Gahhhh, so good.
- Eleven City Diner - A famed Jewish deli, even things like turkey burgers were made from scratch and extra seasoned.
- Lou Mitchell's - So disappointing. I had read about this breakfast joint and got excited because I do love me some breakfast joints. While it did have some charms (like giving out donut holes and Milk Duds to people waiting for tables), the whole thing was so disorganized. The hostess was grouchy, the waitstaff completely forgot about us for awhile and the prices were not worth the food quality/quantity we got.
- Goose Island Brewery - This was located right near Wrigley Field and was the perfect type of brewpub.
- Rock n' Roll McDonald's - OK, full disclosure: We didn't really eat here. I think I may have had a smoothie for my sore throat and Matt might have gotten some breakfast biscuits while we waited for the Untouchables Tour to depart from right outside. But we hung out in there a lot. It's like a McDonald's Museum, with old photos and artifacts from the history of McDonald's, as well as general pop culture stuff. There was a display building outside that was, strangely, locked, so you could only see so much, but that included Elvis' car and statues of the Beatles.